Stand for Job Site Table Saw (Bosch GTS10XC)


A rolling stand, with locking castors for a Bosch GTS10XC job site table saw:

With a little modification this design could work for any jobsite saw. To adjust for bench height just modify the height of the four legs, side walls and rear wall.


A jobsite stand came with the table saw but my workshop is small at just 2.5m by 3.5m and the footprint of the jobsite stand is too big for that space, so I have sold the stand and I'm building my own to replace it.

Bosch GTA-60-W

The jobsite stand is on two fixed wheels and two feet when unfolded, which makes it stable and versatile for a professional moving it between jobs but difficult to move around in the confined space of my tiny workshop.



I started by dimensioning my saw using the shop manual, which includes exterior dimensions and a measuring tape to confirm these as well as take all the minor measurements. I gradually built up a SketchUp plan for the stand as I went.

Most of the dimensions are captured in the SketchUp plan but I didn't attempt to record the recesses for the feet and the positions of the 4 M6 bolts in the plans until after the build. These were the most difficult measurements to get at due to the heavily contoured plastic frame of the saw.

The M6 bolts hold the saw to the jobsite stand and I've reused the holes to fix the saw to my workshop stand. To be honest it's not necessary, if the stand was ever at such an angle that this bolts would actually have an effect, it would already be going over on its side but there's that sense of confidence associated with bolting something down to be considered!

The bolts that come with the saw are far too long for the stand so I've used some 80mm bolts with simple type D M6 x 20mm threaded inserts, each wound into a 10mm hole in the 18mm/3/4" marine ply.

The recesses are genuinely useful. They allow the saw to sit in an extremely stable position even without the bolts inserted.

The primary purpose of the recesses is to let the saw sit flush with the surface of the stand so that dust falls through into the dust tray, which is inserted on top of the dust shelf.

The positions of the M6 retaining bolts and the feet recesses are visible in this photo from my notes:

Summary of process

  • Cut the legs to length
  • Cut and sand the base panel
  • Cut and sand the castor support slats
  • Glue and screw the castor support slats to the base panel
  • Cut the rear and side walls
  • Route the dado in the rear and side walls
  • Biscuit joint and dry fit the base panel, legs, rear wall and side walls
  • Cut and sand the top surface panel
  • Take a deep breath..
  • Glue up and 
    • fit all of the biscuits; base panel, legs, rear wall and side walls
    • screw the rear wall and side walls to the legs
    • leave to dry..

  • Biscuit joint and dry fit the top panel
  • Glue, fit and screw on the top panel
    • leave to dry..
  • Route the recesses for the feet
  • Drill and insert the threaded inserts - be careful not to overtighten; these are going into ply rather than hardwood so they're mostly for show!
  • Mark the cut out for the hole through to the dust drawer.
  • Forstner or auger drill the four corners and use a jig saw to cut out the panel

  • Use a router to flush trim the interior edges, put in a heavy chamfer and sand smooth. I've gone for about 45 degrees over 18mm with a round over towards the bottom to protect the edge of the ply.
    • The idea behind the chamfer is to avoid dust collecting on the edge - we'll see if it actually works over time.
  • Cut and sand the dust shelf
  • Route an 8mm rabbet on the sides and rear of the dust shelf.
    • This fits really well so I'm experimenting with having it slid into the dado rather than glueing. 
    • The dust tray (roasting tin - ahem!) sits in on top of it.

What mistakes did I make?

  • I'm new to routing:
    • Routed too deep in one of the foot recesses because the depth stop worked its way loose (Triton M0F001). I made a plug from some hardwood dowel turned by my father. I liberally glued this in place to stop it from disintegrating over time (from saw vibrations!).
    • Almost the inverse of the first mistake, I subsequently didn't route deep enough in any of the foot recesses - I thought that 3mm would be deep enough but 5 would have worked better. There's about a 2mm gap but I'll see how well dust collection goes before attempting to do anything about this. 
    • A bit of router wandering when doing one of the rear foot recesses.
    • More router wandering in one of the side wall dados:

  • I got the height of the castors wrong. These were sold as 130mm high but were actually 120mm - and I didn't double check it! This was easily fixed by plugging the castor screw holes, doubling up on the castor support slats, drilling new holes and then refitting the castors. I've added the change to the plans to give an honest representation of what was built. They leave me about 8mm above my bench height, which I'll try for a while.
  • Forgot to check that the side walls were square. This was my biggest error and leaves me with a problem for the future because I now have two sloped leading edges that need to be fixed before I can properly fit a door. They're out by an identical margin of about 3mm over a 336mm distance, so I think I had the cross cut angle slightly off when I cut these two panels.


The rectangular foot print, castors and height relative to my bench have had an immediate effect on my working environment. In a matter of seconds I can spin the stand so that the bench acts as a support for long material or as an outfeed table. Similarly the saw can now act as a bench extension.

Best of all there's just more space to move around.

SketchUp Plans

I drew up the plans in SketchUp Make 2017. You can download them here with no obligation or commitment except for a shout out if you're going to share them!


Below is the core cut list with materials indicated. In addition to this I used a bunch of woodscrews, interior wood glue, the four M6x20mm flush (Type D) threaded inserts and 4 Allen drive M6x80 bolts, and the four heavy duty castors; the front two are locking.

Part Quantity Width (mm) Height (mm) Depth (mm) Material
Verticals ("legs") 4 93 336 45 Planed 2x4
Saw Support 1 700 18 600 18mm / 3/4" WBP
Base Panel 1 700 18 600 18mm / 3/4" WBP
Castor Slats 4 120 18 600 18mm / 3/4" WBP
Dust Shelf 1 635 18 582 18mm / 3/4" WBP
Rear Wall 1 700 336 18 18mm / 3/4" MDF
Side Wall 2 582 336 18 18mm / 3/4" MDF


  1. Andreas Kalt's video about making his stand influenced how I went about doing my own: - thanks Andreas :)


Wolfman Jack said…
Thank you great plans. Going to build this.

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